As the car gets older, there are gaps in the direction and the sense of direction is poor, and the steering wheel shakes when driving on bad roads, which is very uncomfortable. Now based on the experience and personal experience shared by the forum predecessors, I will share my personal experience.
In the afternoon, I just finished my car. I finished the work by myself in three hours. The direction was restored to a virginal tightness. There was no gap. It was cool. The impact of small pits and depressions would not be transmitted to the steering wheel. It was completely in place. on the chassis.
1. This experience is applicable to LC95, LC120
Other Toyota systems are similar and have not been personally verified.
My LC95 has a gap of about 1CM in the direction. Although it is within the range of 3CM in the manual, the obsessive-compulsive disorder patient is determined to get rid of it quickly. For this 1CM, I spent 1,000 oceans to repair the steering gear, but the symptoms remained the same. Recently, I carefully observed the gap. When the steering wheel was turned, the cross shaft under the foot did not move, indicating that the gap was in the steering column.
After some hard research on the Internet, according to the experience of my predecessors, my personal analysis is that the inner spring of the plastic cross shaft in the steering column is weak, so I decided to do it. First go to the hardware and electrical market to prepare the spring. Outer diameter 1CM, 1.4CM each two. Then remove the steering column. I won’t talk about the process, but it’s actually very simple. It’s fixed with 4 screws. I’m not a repairman, and it took three hours to complete.
1. The steering column spindle assembly has a frame; 2. The ten-byte spring is weak, although there is no gap, it affects the driving pleasure.
Four, the solution
1. Spot welding spindle assembly. 2. Add a spare spring.
First remove the airbag, then remove the steering wheel, and unplug all the power plugs; then untie the locking screw of the cross knot at the foot position, and remove it completely, otherwise the steering column cannot be pulled out.
Here is the top cross knot. Fastened with two hexagon socket screws. Remove the tension spring first.
Just this screw, one on each side.
This is ten bytes. It takes skill to get this stuff, but I have been groping for a while. The two shafts have to be bent at right angles to be removed.
I strengthened a spare spring inside the original spring, and the parameters will be shared later.
This is how it is installed. There is a gap of about 2mm between the two hemispheres. It is this gap that buffers the ground impact from the steering column. When the spring is weak, the impact is transmitted to the steering wheel, and it feels shocking.
The culprit of the gap – the main pomelo assembly, is the hexagonal column with two points. Do you know what the role of this column is? Those two points are two plastic fixing columns. When the cab is subjected to a major impact, it acts as a feed-in for the steering column, protecting the steering wheel from protruding towards the driver and protecting the driver.
My weight is caused by it, there is no way to fix it. I fixed it by slight spot welding, why is it only lightly spot welded, everyone should understand, right? It cannot be completely welded, so that when it is hit by a major impact, this small spot welding can still be knocked open, and safety can still be guaranteed.
Welded a little on one side, a total of two points. I’m afraid that if the strength is not enough at one point, it will be vibrated again, and it will be a waste of time.
This is the lower end of the steering column, which is fixed and replaces the bearing. Just smear with butter and you’re good to go.
This is the small spring that was added. The parameters are shared with everyone. The outer diameter is 10MM, the length is 24MM, and the wire diameter is 1.2MM.
Well, fellow car lovers, welcome to do it yourself to make your car look youthful again.