This is a very long story, spanning the Northeast, Inner Mongolia, Gansu, Ningxia, Xinjiang, Tibet, Qinghai, a journey of 20,000 kilometers, let me speak slowly, brothers listen slowly.
I have always wanted to have a long-distance trip as I wish, but I am over half a century old, and my off-road vehicle is 11 years old. If we don’t realize this dream, I am afraid we will not be able to do it. Last year, we set off in August, the most gentle season. In 33 days, I wandered in the places I wanted to go in my dreams.
It’s been a long time since I’ve been back, and it’s time to write a travelogue, otherwise I’m afraid I’ll forget every bit of the process.
The No. 1 character in the travel notes, Paladin, travels all the way up the mountain with a height of 5,000 meters and a depth of 50 centimeters, and never shrinks back. This is just after passing the most difficult section of National Highway 219 in Tibet, and the dust all over his body can’t hide the pride of laughing at the end of the world.
This is me, at the age of 51, I still refuse to live a simple life. I drive alone with my daughter who can’t drive. I have run 3,200 kilometers in the most two days. I belong to the type of excitement when I drive on the road.
My daughter, who takes care of food and accommodation during the trip, sets off in the morning to set the city for lunch and the city for overnight stay. She searches the Internet for things that are delicious and suitable for us. This is in the old city of Kashgar. She took a photo with some children running around in the street. She feels that this photo is the most beautiful and genuine smiling face along the way.
Feelings during the journey:
The most beautiful scenery is always on the road
The most beautiful scenery is always in the rearview mirror
No matter what, you’ll leave a lot of regrets along the way
Don’t look back because you can only go forward and forward. . . . . . . .
The first day: Baishan City – Harbin, 530 kilometers, a day of continuous rain.
The weather on the departure was rainy, which is not suitable for long-distance travel, but we couldn’t wait any longer, stuffed messy things into the trunk, and left our hometown impatiently.
After running on the highway for a long time before taking a break, I was so excited.
The most beautiful city in Northeast China – Harbin, on the square of the Sophia Cathedral, the drizzle did not deter tourists, but the legendary pigeons have taken shelter from the rain, making the place a bit deserted.
It was already 4 pm when we arrived in Harbin. I saved the car and watched the Sophia Church at dawn. I was hungry and saw the roast duck restaurant next to the church. I bought half of the delicious roast duck and ate it while walking. It was a pleasant time.
The most famous food in Harbin is red sausage and sticky cake. I bought a lot of rice cakes to eat on the road, but I threw away more than half of them because it was too sweet to eat a few.
The most beautiful thing in Harbin is the Central Street at night. Russian beauties walking here in summer make the night intoxicating and confusing. On the balconies of ancient Russian buildings beside the street, accordions blow the love of the birch forest.
The only disappointing thing in Harbin is the Huamei Western Restaurant, which is so popular on the Internet that many people have never eaten in Harbin. It really has nothing to do with Western food. The food is rough. Hard to swallow, what a disappointment.
On August 16, 2019, I stayed overnight in Harbin, and the whole northeast was rainy and rainy. I don’t know if I should choose such a season to start.
The second day: Harbin – Huma County 810 kilometers
Great Northern Wilderness, Heilongjiang, Xiaoxinganling…
The Xiaoxing’anling service area, in my impression, is the last decent service area on the Heilongjiang road section. I haven’t met the service area for a long time, and there are even many road sections without mobile phone signals. The most abnormal thing is that some road sections have gas stations as far as 400 kilometers away.
The specialty mushrooms in the Xiaoxing’anling area are delicious and inexpensive. It’s not easy to eat delicious meals in the service area during the journey.
If you haven’t been to the Great Northern Wilderness, it’s hard to imagine the cornfields overlooking the sky, the ancient railway that runs alongside the road, and a train that only drags four or five carriages. Time suddenly slows down here.
After passing the Heihe River, set foot on Provincial Highway 209, a National Defense Road along Heilongjiang, passing through the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains. There are various ethnic customs along the way, and the journey has really begun here.
This is a winding journey along the Heilongjiang River. Unfortunately, on rainy days, we can’t see much scenery on the other side. The next two thousand kilometers are all walking along the Heilongjiang River and the Ergun River. These two thousand kilometers are the mountains and mountains in the northeast. The most beautiful Hulunbuir prairie in Inner Mongolia, the first climax has come. . . . . .
Overnight in Huma County, a small county town in the far north of Heilongjiang River. It was already 8 o’clock in the evening when we arrived here. There was almost no one on the rainy street. It was hard to find an open barbecue restaurant, which served grilled steamed buns, pimple soup, and wings. Mao Dan, and Jiang Xiaobai. . . . . .
The third day: August 19 Huma County – Arctic Village
A day full of content, 600 kilometers of forest roads, 209 provincial roads, and detours of the country road 505 walked for dozens of kilometers. Later, the road was blocked and I went to Beihong Village by mistake. It was already ten o’clock at night when I arrived at Beiji Village.
Getting up early, the proprietress of the hotel said that the road to the North Pole Village was under repair, and she had to go back 25 kilometers to detour through the country road. The forest path in the rain was straight and long, and the road in the Daxing’an Mountains was almost untouched for more than 100 kilometers. In the gloomy sky, cycling looks lonely.
Township road Y505, if you have a chance, it is really beautiful.
The last thing you want to see during the trip still happened:
A bridge on the township road was being rebuilt, and a temporary passage was padded with soil beside the bridge. A Beijing brand car was parked in the middle of the road. Go, this place is in the depths of Daxing’an Mountains, there is no mobile phone signal, at least help to go to the village to call for rescue, the tanker driver is very heartbroken.
Fortunately, the rescue had already arrived when I arrived, otherwise I had to turn around and rush back to Huma.
Since you can’t be in a hurry, sit down and enjoy this quiet time away from the hustle and bustle, sit down and boil a pot of water, and have a cup of instant coffee.
The most memorable thing is to go to the forest to have a urinate, and it only took 20 seconds to feel itchy on the head. When I looked carefully, there were countless small black mosquitoes around me. I pulled up my pants and ran out, and my clothes were covered with them. There are more than 20 large bags on the table, and this bag has been with me for more than ten days. The scary forest insects say that the mosquitoes in the grassland bite people hard, and I am far inferior to the Xing’an Mountains.
When the road cleared and drove on, I arrived at the Hanjiayuan gas station. It was almost 1 o’clock in the afternoon. This is the last gas station. It is 400 kilometers ahead to the Arctic Village. There is no gas station and there is very little mobile phone signal. In the wild Driving with oil is the only way to have a bottom.
The 18th Station Oroqen Township, an ancient post station, has preserved many things from a long time ago: totems of hundreds of years, shops of decades, and it takes tens of minutes to stew a plate of beans.
The pork ribs stewed with beans at the roadside shop at Shiba Station, stewed slowly in an iron pot with firewood, enough time for us to take a leisurely walk around the town when the dishes are cooked, and served them on a large plate, enough for two people to eat without eating.
Every county and township in Daxing’an Mountains has a boundary gate like this, but there hasn’t been a car passing by for a long time, and the houses of the forest guards are also dusty, but I saw many squirrels staring at us curiously.
After three consecutive days of rain, plus the road blockage in the morning, I was in a bad mood. But when I entered the border of Mohe, the sunset glow on the bank of Heilongjiang pierced the lead cloud and sprinkled the river with a golden color. I felt better all of a sudden. stand up.
After 6:30 in the evening, I saw the sunset glow in the extreme north, which was gorgeous and long. For the next hour and a half, the sunset hung on the horizon and reflected red half of the sky. When the car was driving on the winding mountain road, the glow changed colors. I suddenly realized , It turns out that the difficult road ahead and the cumbersome process just let me take a look at the sunset in the north at this time.
The sunset in Mohe is the most beautiful sunset among the 20,000 kilometers. Later, I have seen the shocking sunset in the grasslands of Inner Mongolia and the Tianshan Mountains in Xinjiang, but looking back, the sunset here is still the most unforgettable.
I originally wanted to stay overnight in Beihong Village, because it is the northernmost village, but when I booked a hotel online, I mistakenly booked the old village head’s farmyard in Beihong Village. I found this mistake when I entered Beihong Village in the dark, and I turned around and went back. It was already 10 o’clock in the evening in Arctic Village.
A day full of twists and turns finally came to an end. . . . . .
In such a popular tourist destination, the double standard room is only more than 200 yuan. I like the price. After sleeping, the journey is still far away.
Day 4: Arctic Village – Mohe – Genhe travels 410 kilometers
On August 19th, it was only 6 degrees when I got up early, and it was a cool summer.
If you want to avoid the summer heat, self-driving in the Greater and Lesser Khingan Mountains is highly recommended. There are vast forests, clear rivers, rich and pollution-free food, and the most important thing is that the people here are honest and kind.
Open your eyes and open the curtains, and plant corn next to the window, it is really natural and environmentally friendly
A group photo of the free breakfast, four small dishes can be added if it is not enough.
We live in a farmyard. The five cars we stay in at night include those in Zhejiang and Qingdao.
The so-called Arctic Village is an extension of a small village by the Heilongjiang River, and some artificial landscapes are built along the river. There is really nothing to see on the other side of the river in this section, it is a very ordinary section of the riverbank.
A stone reads: I found Bei, and it feels silly to take pictures with a group of people.
This statue seems to imply a seal. It is the only imposing thing on the riverside. The rest are scattered large stones. The most northerly and most beautiful, the business atmosphere is very heavy but the scale is not enough. The word “extreme north” attracts too many tourists.
The most northern post office, so romantic, I bought a postcard with my daughter, but my 15 yuan postcard with the words “North miss” has not arrived yet, probably lost.
Recommend the most worthwhile porridge in Northeast China to friends in the south: big ballast porridge, fresh corn husk, boiled slowly in a firewood iron pot, sweet and soft. . . . . . .
The northernmost supply and marketing cooperative, the northernmost. . . . . . Everything here is the most northern.
After visiting the Arctic Village for two hours, there is nothing to see. It is just right to go to Mohe for dinner while the weather is sunny. Mohe is a small town in the Greater Khingan Mountains. The wildfire a few decades ago made this place famous all over the world.
It is said to be a county seat, but it is not much bigger than a village from a distance.
For lunch, stewed vermicelli with braised pork and fried pork with fresh mushrooms. There are only a few restaurants in the small county town, and each one is packed with diners at noon, and it’s hard to find one with free seats.
Daxing’anling May 6th Fire Memorial Hall, originally wanted to visit here when I came to Mohe, but it closed at noon and opened at 1:30, and there are still more than 300 kilometers of mountain roads to get to Genhe City, where I will stay overnight, so I can’t delay here. It’s a pity Yes, on the road behind I saw many carbon trees that fell down in the fire, and I felt the severe disaster decades ago.
In the small forest management and protection station deep in the Greater Khingan Mountains, there are wild animals running around quietly.
The Xinhua Bookstore that seems to go back in time
There is a place on the side of the road near Genhe, which is the coldest place ever measured in China. It once measured the extremely cold data of minus 58 degrees. Unfortunately, it was already dark when we arrived, and the cold pole sign was very blurry. Later, in Kanas, Xinjiang, I heard from local people that it was only 0.1 degrees higher than here, and missed the word “cold pole”. Unfortunately, the Northeast did not use this name at all, and the word was abandoned.
After starting from Mohe, the road got worse and worse. It felt like it hadn’t been repaired for many years. Especially after entering the border of Inner Mongolia and passing through Mangui Town, the permafrost subsidence in the forest wetland became more and more severe, and the speed of the car gradually dropped below 30 kilometers. A road sign reads: Jump ahead! I was wondering what it meant. The 50-mile car really flew into the air. Fortunately, the chassis of the old car was high and hard. Otherwise, I would have to wait for rescue. The last 200 kilometers walked for about 5 hours. It can be said that it is full. This section of the river is the worst road in my entire trip.
It was already 8 o’clock at night when we arrived at Genhe, the conditions of the hotel we booked were very poor, there was nothing to eat on the street, we could only cook some barbecue and drink Jiang Xiaobai at the hotel, it was really cold that night.
Day 5: The shortest 220-kilometer journey from Genhe to Linjiang Village, the day with the most regrets
Genhe belongs to the city of Hailar, so he got up early to go to refuel, then bought breakfast and went back to the hotel to wake up his daughter, otherwise it would be a waste of time to eat and refuel after she woke up.
The beef steamed buns in Genhe Morning gradually tasted the taste of Inner Mongolia. The fist-sized steamed stuffed buns are filled with beef.
Staying overnight in Genhe is entirely for this, the most beautiful reindeer garden in Aoluguya China, where the last Ewenki live. Their ancestors hunted on the banks of the Erguna River and herded reindeer in Daxing’an Mountains. Now they settle here, and the reindeer do not Migrated again and became a receptionist for tourists from all over the world.
[The content comes from the off-road e family community]
Author: 00szx
Link: http://bbs.ucar.run/thread_14756481_1_1.html
