My Paladin has been driving for three years, and has always had problems with resonance vibration. For three years, I have been researching the root cause of the problem: engine, gearbox, exhaust pipe, wheel bearings, etc.
In the end, it was concluded that as soon as the speed reached 50, it began to vibrate violently. The vibration at 50 in the third gear was suspected to be caused by the supporting gear, and the vibration was still caused by switching to 50 in the 4th gear. This shows that the problem is not simple. After referring to everyone’s experience on the Internet, the main suspicion is the drive shaft problem!
The reason why I haven’t entered the auto repair shop for a long time is because I refer to the experience of the big guys, and blindly changing a lot of parts can’t solve the problem.
Referring to the experience of countless predecessors, I definitely have to do surgery on the drive shaft recently, and I don’t want to replace the drive shaft assembly. First, I am not 100% sure that it is a transmission problem. If the medicine is not right, it will be a waste of money. Too big a problem, there is no bending, bumping, deformation, ten bytes are good, and the balance weights are all there.
Step by step from the simple operation:
The problem caused by the drive shaft is basically the imbalance. The first thing I thought of was to do the dynamic balance of the drive shaft, but I couldn’t find any one in the same city that could do it. Helpless to give up.
It also refers to the “indigenous method of dynamic balancing” by Latin riders and other riders on the Internet. Simply put, it is to equip the drive shaft with a dynamic balance iron block. Just do what you say, buy clamps online, compare the dynamic balance weight on the drive shaft by yourself, and cut the iron block yourself.
The iron block at the bottom of the drilling rig was fixed around the original balance weight and went out for a test run. Repeatedly all afternoon, if there is no effect, immediately drill under the car to adjust the position of the iron block (not easy), finally no effect, even more shaking and helpless to give up!
The theoretical basis is that a car friend mentioned that disassembly and reinstallation of ten bytes may disturb the original position (the wishbone is rotated 180 degrees for installation), which will cause the original balance to be broken, so it only needs to be disassembled and recalibrated to install it. In addition, if the cross shaft is rusted, it will inevitably lead to unbalanced vibration.
Another common thing that also happened to my car is that partial damage to the bridge bearings and bridge hangers will also cause the two shafts to run out of balance and shake. Mine is a two-wheel-drive Paladin, the bridge part is a hanger, and a bridge bearing is fixed, and the rubber ferrule between the two is fixed for buffering and shock absorption. After careful observation, I found that the rubber of my bridge bearing and hanger has been worn out. Those who are loose and wide must be replaced.
What is omitted is the removal and installation process
Because it is really time-consuming and brain cells to do it yourself and operate it for the first time.
See pictures for details on operation…
Let’s directly summarize the results and effects:
1. My ten-byte is good, but the middle ten-byte must be removed during the bearing replacement process. Generally, it cannot be guaranteed to be removed intact. I just spent a lot of effort and finally cut it off violently. Alright, replace the bearings and install a new decabyte.
2. My transmission shaft has white handmade arrow marks left over, but the marks are not in a straight line. I suspect it was the mark made during the previous correction, but it was disturbed by the auto mechanic during installation (strongly despise unscrupulous and incompetent cars Repairman), so when I installed it, I re-installed it according to the arrow.
3. I think the most important point: the installation of bridge bearings and the fixing of hangers. The outside of the bridge bearing is a large rubber washer that must be completely moved into the edge slot of the hanger iron ring. Only in this way can the hanger be able to firmly fix the bridge bearing and give the transmission shaft a stable middle support point. .
The actual operation is somewhat cumbersome, because after fixing it, it is found that the bearing ring and the hanger ring do not match very well, and finally the bearing ring must be squeezed into the hanger iron ring vigorously. Thinking about it carefully, the root of my shaking problem should be at the bridge bearing. The support point is scattered, so it must be out of balance when rotating at high speed. .
4. There is no fuss. After reinstalling, test the car and increase the speed. It is still stable in the third gear at 50, but the speed is already high. There is no more vibration, and it feels like the power output is higher. Continue to increase the speed until the 5th gear is about 100, there is no problem, and the work is done perfectly.
Disassembly and installation process (multiple pictures with caution!)
Prepared accessories: a bridge bearing, less than 30 yuan from Ma Yun’s house (sub-factory)
Prepare accessories: ten bytes (universal joint), Ma Yunjia is also more than 20 yuan (sub-factory parts), focus on specifications: p31,, 27*82, wild card (the size of the personal test is a standard match, please do not buy the wrong one ).
The ten characters at the cross bridge bearing of the original car, the arrow point is the oil nozzle that can be filled with engine oil
The state of the bridge bearing and the hanger of the original car, carefully observe the place pointed by the two small arrows, the outside is the edge groove of the hanger iron ring, and the inside iron ring is the edge of the bearing sleeve. The state of the two pictures is not tightly engaged, this is The reason for looseness. The root cause is that the rubber ring is aging, shrinking and deformed.
Drill the bottom of the car and remove the drive shaft, tool 17 spanners, 14 spanners. There is not much skill in disassembly, the skill requires strength, and I can get it done with hands and feet anyway.
Another novice note is that you only need to remove the four 17 screws on the rear axle and the two 14 fixing screws on the bridge. Just pull it out.
The bridge bearing, if you look closely, the rubber ring is worn out, only half of the original thickness. The rubber cover on the outside is also loose
After dismantling, remove the ten-byte first, and then the front and rear axles can be separated after removing the ten-byte, and then the bridge bearing at the back can be removed.
Dismantling the cross street is definitely a hard job. Without a professional vise, you can only find a way by yourself. I saw that some auto mechanics directly hit the side of the drive shaft with a hammer (don’t hit the ten-byte mounting hole directly, it will be deformed. The transmission shaft is basically scrapped), I have tried this, and it can indeed shake out a little, but it can’t be shaken out completely, so I have to continue to find a way.
The method in the picture is my own creation. The top of the jack is used to push the beam of the car, the lower trumpet (17 sleeve) is topped with the upper ten-byte, and the bottom 32 sleeve is placed on the lower ten-byte. (32 sleeve positive size can hold You have to press ten bytes into it)
The method of dismantling the ten bytes mentioned above cannot be completely solved, so I can only use my method, which is violent. Cut off the ten-bit with a straight angle grinder, then use a sledgehammer to break out the ten-byte socket from the outside to the inside. ok This is an intermediate solution, a 100% solution. If the ten bytes are determined to be damaged and the previous method does not work, you can directly use violence.