D8 Leiwuqi ~ Zizhu Temple ~ Leiwuqi 350km
Today is to go to Zizhu Temple
The thirty-nine ethnic group area in Qiongbo Dingqing has become the area with the largest number of temples and believers and the greatest influence. Zizhu Temple is one of the largest existing temples in Tibet, with the largest number of believers and the most complete preservation of the rituals of the religion. The Benjiao Chanyuan in Zizhu Temple can systematically describe the classics of the Bonjiao and teach various practice methods including the mysterious and ancient Supreme Yoga of the Bonjiao. The unique features of the temple are not only the Buddhist activities of this religion, but also the special dance of the Year of the Rooster. It is understood that this form of naked dancing of gods can only be restored in Zizhu Temple in the whole of Tibet.
There are four sacred mountains in the religion, mainly Gangdisi Mountain in Ali, Nyingchi Mountain in Nyingchi, Zizhu Mountain in Qamdo, and Meili Snow Mountain in Yulong. There are main halls, scripture halls, and monk’s houses on the six peaks. In the prosperous period, there were as many as two to three thousand monks. When the Buddha Xin Rao Miwo was promoting Buddhism, he once taught the Dharma in Zizhu Mountain and gave him great blessings. It is also predicted that in the future, Mount Zizhu will have a profound impact on the development and dissemination of Buddhism in this religion, and there will be many great achievers who will benefit all living beings. Since then, 80 great achievers have emerged among the practitioners of Shenshan in the past dynasties, and left their precious relics. For example, there are Xinmei Zupu, Master Dongjiong, Master Zhanbananka, Master Caiwang Rinzeng, Master Luo Dannibu, Master Sangye Lingba, etc., as well as the caves where they practiced with Master Lotus and Peanut, and left traces on the stone walls. Handprints and footprints. There are many sacred sites in Zizhu Mountain. The Buddha statues, mandala and mantras that appear in the rock walls and caves are dizzying. It gathers such rich treasures of Ben religion in one mountain. At the same time, Zizhu Mountain also has a tunnel around the mountain that represents the six paths of reincarnation. Many Tibetans come here to worship devoutly from thousands of miles away.
Ding Zhenzu Puerser Rinpoche, the forty-third generation dharma heir of Zizhu Monastery of Yongzhongben religion, is the reincarnation of “Master Mubang Sadong”, one of the eight great achievers of the “translator inheritance” of Buddhism in Yongzhongben religion.
The oil price has risen to more than 9 yuan a liter
Overlooking Zizhu Mountain from G317, the mountain body eroded by strong winds forms several natural heavenly gates
Zizhu Temple is located on Zizhu Mountain next to G317 National Highway in Jueen Township, 37km east of Dingqing County. It is said that the history of Zizhu Temple can be traced back to three thousand years ago. Zizhu Temple was rebuilt and restored in the middle of the 14th century by Luo Deng Ningbo Renzeng Kangzhu, a famous eminent monk of this religion. “Zizhu” means six peaks, with different peaks protruding, tall and steep, with jagged rocks and stacked Zen caves.
The Daxiong Hall of Zizhu Temple
The thin white line at the foot of the mountain is G317
Early September is the season for harvesting highland barley
D9 Leiwuqi~Enda Village~Bomi
The car gas station on the side of the road adds 200 yuan
Generally, you will pass through Qamdo from Leiwuqi to Basu. First, you don’t want to take the dangerous G214 national highway. Second, based on the principle of not going back, turn south from Enda Village and enter the 557/558 township road for 55km. Qingxiang turns east to enter the S303 Provincial Highway. Continue to drive 27km to enter G214 National Highway, and then turn south to G318 to Basu.
Bangda Town merges from G214 to G318 interchange, and there is a long queue of vehicles waiting for the security check
I am also checking in at the Yela Mountain Pass, so I will come down by the way for convenience
G318 Suspension Bridge Near Lagan Township
ranwu lake
It was already dark when we arrived in Bomi, so refuel, eat, sleep, and enter Medog tomorrow.
D10 Bomi-Medog
G318 has been maintained by armed police officers and soldiers for many years, and now it is really a Ferrari that can run.
The part of the map drawn with a yellow line belongs to China, but it is not allowed to enter now. This area is larger than that of Hebei Province, and they are all subtropical virgin forests.
Liberation Bridge is now not allowed to approach without a pass
When entering Medog, fill up the oil in advance. It is said that there is no refueling for non-local vehicles. The road in Medog is also relatively easy to run now, but cars are not recommended to enter. However, in the second half of 2019, it is estimated that the road from Milin to Medog will be open to traffic, and it will be easy to enter Medog by then.
Because of the low sea level, Medog should have a subtropical climate, and the humid air is very suitable for living.
After entering Medog, this road should be kept well, and I will read it when I come out
Who is this caught?
The Jiefang Bridge in Yubeng Village, this bridge is not allowed to pass now
The Tibetan houses in Bebeng Township are different from the Tibetan houses in other places, with a slightly exotic style
fruit pond
Overlooking the county town from the hill next to the county town of Medog (this photo was borrowed from a friend, and when I got there to take pictures, the sun was almost setting).
A stone pot with a diameter of 24cm, you can draw grooves on the stone with your fingernails
And soapstone hot pot
Repeatedly told to pack it well, there is still more than 10,000km to go
It is said that it is a small hand-woven box from Nepal. The locals use it as a bento box. They are too particular.
D11 Medog ~ Nyingchi 360km
From Medog to Nyingchi, you still have to pass through Bomi (after 2019, you can enter Medog from Bomi and cross the Yarlung Zangbo River Bridge to Milin County via Beibeng Village). It was raining when I entered Medog yesterday, and there were not many vehicles. Today is sunny and there are obviously a lot more vehicles. Coupled with the fact that there is a convoy of demobilized soldiers, the road is extremely crowded.
Motuo stone pot is also a must-buy when entering Medog this time. I originally wanted to buy it directly from Bangsing Village, the place of origin (it is said on the Internet that there are often fake ones), but the owner of the stone pot shop said that the road to Bangsing Village is very narrow and difficult. It’s very dangerous, even he won’t do it, and my car is too wide, so I’m advised not to take the risk. Considering that it has been raining in Motuo for the past two days, and based on the principle of listening to people’s advice to eat enough, I decided not to take unnecessary risks, so I bought two large stone pots in the county seat. In the right two wooden boxes wrapped with yellow tape in the photo are stone pots
The raw material of the Motuo stone pot is the rare natural soapstone in the world. The texture is soft. The main color of the stone pot is taupe and gray. About 30 centimeters, the medium diameter is about 20 centimeters, and the small diameter is about 10 centimeters. There are two types of pot bottoms: flat bottom and curved bottom. Motuo stone pot can withstand high temperature of 2000 ℃. It has the advantages of fast heat transfer, non-stick pan, and no discoloration. The soup is fragrant and delicious, with a mellow and long-lasting aftertaste. The food stewed in stone pot often has obvious therapeutic and health effects on patients with high blood pressure, heart disease, cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases. It is an excellent utensil for hot pot, soup pot, cooking, stewing and cooking.
Due to climatic reasons, it is only seven or eight months a year to go up the mountain to collect and process. Two months’ worth of food and firewood must be prepared before going up the mountain. Due to the lack of access to roads, the finished product is carried down the mountain by yaks and horses, and soaked in the Yarlung Zangbo River for about 30 days before it can be used. The stone pot contains 16 kinds of trace elements such as zinc, iron, calcium and magnesium needed by the human body. The longer it is used, the more beneficial it is to the human body.
Tibet has a special preference for stone pot cooking in history, and now the Potala Palace still completely preserves the stone pot used by Songtsan Gampo. It is said that in history, living Buddhas and nobles all had their own special stone pots, and the core craft of the famous Tibetan medicine seventy-two pearl pills must be boiled in this pot (this craft has been protected by the first batch of intangible cultural heritage).
Inside the two yellow wooden boxes are stone pots
Medog local lemon
The mother pig and piglets seen behind the checkpoint are very miniature. The mother pig is only 60cm long. I don’t know if it is a Tibetan pig.
The roadbed has been repaired, and it is said that Milin-Medog will be open to traffic in 2019.
Arrive in Nyingchi smoothly in the evening
D12 Nyingchi ~ Jiacha County 420km
Lin Zhi had to register first when refueling, and it was already past 11:00 am after refueling (she still slept until she woke up naturally every day). Today’s itinerary is not difficult to walk, and there are few people and the altitude is low. The first stop was to go to Pai Town to see the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon, but at the head of the bridge in Pai Town, two villagers who came over without any uniforms charged a fee. I was very upset, thinking that I had already seen it from the other side of the Grand Canyon in Medog County, and I couldn’t encourage his behavior of indiscriminate charging, so I firmly refused to turn around and return.
The fuel price in Nyingchi is reasonable, but the road in Medog is relatively fuel-intensive, equivalent to more than 20 liters of fuel per 100 kilometers
Nyingchi street after rain
You can also worship on the Yarlung Zangbo River
Simple and humble temple
There is still no shortage of devout believers in the simple and simple temples
Samba village house
Successfully reached Gacha.
D13 Jiacha County～Shannan～Lhasa
The road from Jiacha to Lhasa is very easy, there is nothing worth describing, the route is as shown in the figure below
The road is always along the Yarlung Zangbo River. Another advantage of taking this line is that the altitude is low, basically between 3200 and 3600 meters.
Tricycle in Lhasa
Chalapuru Grottoes next to Yaowang Mountain
It is said that it is a grotto, but it is actually a big stone sunken in, and it is also used as a dojo for worshiping Buddha.
Staying in this hotel, the environment is good, but it is too troublesome to get in and out of the big car, and the price is not expensive, 180 yuan/day.
full of taste
D14 Lhasa
still wakes up naturally. After breakfast, take a taxi to the Jokhang Temple. It can be said that even if you don’t go to the Potala Palace (I didn’t go), you have to go to the Jokhang Temple!
Get off at Jiangsu Road, walk to the end of Lugu Sixth Lane, and see a compound “Xiazha Courtyard” head-on. The Xiazha Courtyard used to be the residence of a certain prince, but now it serves as a thangka center.
The square-shaped compound, with three floors, is very grand
When building a house, leave a stone ring for the rope in advance
Fingers are embroidered with gold thread
Embroidered details come to life
Stairs connecting upstairs and downstairs
mandala of sand
I still don’t understand why the upstairs and downstairs are connected by this wooden grille
Coral, pearls, and human bones can all be used as materials for painting thangkas
The third floor is the thangka school and the studio of the teacher. This student is painting thangka
Take a break by the tea stove in the studio and enjoy tea
All kinds of pigments are all ground from natural minerals
Students learning thangka embroidery skills
This is how the pearls are strung together
There are so many people who come to see a doctor in this Tibetan medicine center that there is no room to sit in the room
This big drum can’t be lifted without strength
Jokhang Temple
The mandala made by Huang Ji Jewelry, the narrator introduced that it is worth one billion yuan, which is estimated to be cultural relics
The sky is raining lightly with snowflakes from time to time, which does not affect the reverence of devout believers in the slightest. This is not accompanied by singing and music like CCTV recordings. This is actually the most authentic Tibet.
Daqing Yamen Mansion
(to be continued)
